Seeking Innovative Solutions for Immediate and Dramatic Skin Transformation Results

At L’Oréal, we are dedicated to formulate science-driven products that deliver first-in-class efficacy, for proven skin transformation. As consumer expectations continue to shift dramatically, there is a gap of performance between existing solutions and “holy grail” needs against aging skin concerns, such as skin sagging, deep wrinkles and skin hyperpigmentation. In particular, the challenge remains in creating “instant” and “transformational performance to visibly:

1. Lift and contour (tighten) facial skin (including jawline area),
2. Camouflage deep wrinkles (e.g. nasolabial, marionette, deep glabellar lines and crow’s feet, etc.)
3. Lighten extreme spot/hyperpigmentation issues (e.g. dark spots, undereye dark circles, etc.)

To target these three specific fields of interests, L’Oréal is looking for solutions which are likely to require interdisciplinary cutting-edge technology(s) that combines various elements of science with creativity, innovation and design thinking.

Technical solution examples and inspirations for the fields of interest include (but not limited to) the following:

1) Skin Sagging Reduction:

• Materials that can penetrate superficially inside the skin and tighten inside
• Contractile film-forming material that can be applied to the eye and face
• Other creative routines, tools, non-energy device, or new experience

2) Deep Wrinkle Reduction:

• Materials/formula/technology that can fill wrinkles (up to 1mm filling) or depress wrinkles for immediate results lasting at least a day and/or leading to long-term benefits
• Other creative routines, tools, non-energy device, or new experience

3) Target Skin Hyperpigmentation Issues:

• New active ingredients/materials targeting skin superficial stratum corneum layer to achieve instant brightening of skin after one application and provide long-term benefits
• Molecules with high strength skin resurfacing power resulting in smooth skin surface that reflect light evenly and leads to brightening effect
• Materials stimulated by external factor (e.g. light) for brightening effect

L’Oréal is interested to explore a diverse range of solutions/technologies that cover different approaches, modes of action, as well as different experiences, including:

• New molecules, e.g. new active ingredients, new materials
• Smart/stimulated materials that have the potential to be transformed or respond to different stimuli (e.g. pH, water, light, oil, etc.)
• Formula (Open to any format, e.g. leave-on daily wear, rinse off, night wear, etc.)
• Articles or delivery systems (e.g. patch, mask, tape, etc.)
• Other creative routines, tools, non-energy (mechanical-based) device, or new experience

Key requirements of the proposed solution/technology include:

• Stronger perceivable performance that can achieve immediate (preferably within few minutes to several hours after application) and drastic results, better than regular skin care products and can last for at least 8-10 hours (ideally can last beyond 1 day)
• Human safety is a must (e.g. non-harsh chemicals, no UV, temperature stability up to 45°C, etc.)
• Be suitable for home usage that does not require a certified beauty professional. If it is a professional tool, there must be a path to home use.
• Be at least TRL 5 with data for proof of performance

Other technical requirements:

• Non-animal derived products only
• Non-animal tested
• Materials should be non-petrochemical derived (e.g. green, natural or path to green). Chemistry that can never be used in cosmetics are out of scope.
• If the solution is a molecule, it needs to be solubilized/dispersed in cosmetic solution (water, alcohol, isododecane)
• If solution is a leave-on daily wear, it needs to be flexible to move with skin, makeup compatible, and invisible
• If solution smooths/lifts wrinkle by tapes, it needs to show data on why the new solution is better/different than many market proposals

What we are NOT looking for:

• Traditional skin care solutions or technologies which are already well-explored
• Traditional make-up solutions
• Skin care actives that take time to see results (e.g. 4-8 weeks)
• Materials that are not for cosmetic use

• L’Oréal is open to receive proposals from start-ups, SMEs, academia, cosmetics vendors, and cosmetics suppliers
• Proposals should clearly highlight the uniqueness and specificity of the technology (e.g. what makes it different and better than the other ones in the same area)
• They are also keen to explore proposals for solutions/technologies that are not initially designed for cosmetics. Functionalities can be explored to see if the transfer to cosmetics is feasible.  
• Open to various industries such as foods, biotech, medical device, pharma, etc. from where the technology could be adapted
• Target market for the proposed solutions can comprise the global market, or be specific to a niche market (e.g., specific solutions for people of colour)

Cost target of the product/solution:

• Ideally, material/ingredient cost-price should be comparable to existing cost and/or rationally benchmarked against existing alternatives.

Development of product/solution may take 1-3 years depending on the Technological Readiness Level (TRL) and existing functionalities of the technology. L’Oréal is keen to explore game-changing technologies wherever they come from, whatever the initial application.

Opportunities to receive some support (monetary and/or in-kind) from L’Oréal – such as access to L’Oréal’s extensive expertise in the beauty industry, partnerships for proof-of-concepts, and new market opportunities.